Ishigaki is the gateway to the Yaeyama Islands, far south of Okinawa's main island, and one of the few places in Japan for genuine southern-island hopping. It's a different trip from the main island: no big aquarium, but Michelin-three-star Kabira Bay, Taketomi's red-tiled village and water-buffalo carts, and Iriomote's jungle and mangroves, and a string of islands each a fast ferry away. This guide covers Kabira Bay, Ishigaki, Taketomi and Iriomote, plus glass-boat and buffalo-cart fares, the ferries and how many days. It's the Yaeyama-islands deep-dive for Okinawa; the main-island gateway is in our Naha guide.
- Gateway to the Yaeyama Islands: reached by air, base on Ishigaki to island-hop
- Kabira Bay, Michelin three stars: no swimming, glass boat ~¥1,300-1,700 to see below
- Taketomi: red-tiled village + water-buffalo cart (~¥3,300+), ferry 10-15 min
- Iriomote: jungle, mangrove canoeing, water-buffalo crossing to Yubu Island
- Plan 3-4 days: island-hopping-led, a different trip from the main island
📖 Table of contents
What Ishigaki and Yaeyama are
The Yaeyama Islands lie about 400 km southwest of Okinawa's main island, in waters closer to Taiwan, and Ishigaki is the largest, the one with an airport and the hub for hopping to the surrounding islands. This far south, nearer the tropics, the sea is bluer and the nature wilder, and the villages still keep traditional Ryukyu red tiles and stone walls. To be clear: Yaeyama is a separate trip from the main island — you can't drive there; you fly to Ishigaki, then take fast ferries from its outer-island terminal to each island.
The standard way to do Yaeyama is to base your lodging on Ishigaki and hop to one island a day by fast ferry: Ishigaki itself has Kabira Bay and beaches, while Taketomi, Iriomote, Kohama and Kuroshima each have their own character, doable as day trips or with a night or two. Below, Ishigaki first, then Taketomi and Iriomote, the two essential hops.
Kabira Bay
Kabira Bay (Kabira-wan) is Ishigaki's number-one sight. The bay is scattered with green islets, the water shifting from emerald to deep blue with depth, and it holds a Michelin Green Guide three stars. But know this first: Kabira Bay has strong currents and swimming is banned for safety, so it's for looking, not for getting in. The way to see the coral, tropical fish and turtles below is a glass-bottom boat — a clear-hulled, roughly 30-minute cruise, about ¥1,300-1,700 by operator (children about half).
Viewing Kabira Bay is free, with an overlook and shops on shore; only the glass boat charges, bookable on the day or online. To snorkel, head to other swimmable beaches on Ishigaki (below). Late afternoon brings soft light and fewer people, the best time to photograph that gradient sea.
The rest of Ishigaki and Ishigaki beef

Ishigaki itself is worth a day's loop. Yonehara Beach has a shallow coral reef good for snorkeling among tropical fish; the Tamatorizaki overlook looks down on the sea either side of the island's narrow waist; the Hirakubozaki lighthouse at the north tip is a wide-open cape; and there's the Ishigaki limestone cave. Offshore, Ishigaki is a world-class spot for manta-ray diving, drawing divers specially.
For food, Ishigaki beef is the top local black wagyu, finely marbled, served as yakiniku, sushi or a burger patty; Yaeyama soba uses thin round noodles in a light broth, a little different from the main island's Okinawa soba; and seasonal pineapple and mango are very sweet. Restaurants and izakaya cluster around the ferry terminal and the Euglena Mall arcade in town — handy for dinner after a day of hopping.
Taketomi Island

Taketomi is the most popular and easiest Yaeyama hop — about 10-15 minutes by fast ferry from Ishigaki's outer-island terminal. The whole island preserves a traditional Ryukyu village (an Important Preservation District): red-tiled roofs, coral stone walls, white-sand lanes, and all manner of shisa lion figures crouching on the roofs — strolling or cycling around feels like stepping back in time.

Taketomi's signature experience is the water-buffalo cart — riding the slow cart as the driver plays sanshin and sings Yaeyama island songs through the village, about 30 minutes, roughly ¥3,300 and up by operator (higher in peak season). The beaches are lovely too: Kaiji Beach, where you can scoop up star-shaped "star sand," and Kondoi Beach, one of the island's few calm swimmable beaches. Taketomi suits a half-to-full day as a Ishigaki day trip, with a few guesthouses for those who want the village at night with no day-trippers.
Iriomote and island-hopping
Iriomote is Yaeyama's second-largest island and its most adventurous stop. About 90% is subtropical jungle, home to the endangered Iriomote cat, with mostly nature-led activities: canoeing through the river-mouth mangroves, hiking to waterfalls like Pinaisara, or riding a water-buffalo cart across the shallows to Yubu Island — a whole subtropical botanical garden, a memorable experience. From Ishigaki it's about 40-45 minutes by fast ferry.
Beyond Taketomi and Iriomote, Yaeyama has more islands to add by interest: Kuroshima, known for cattle and straight roads; the resort-feel Kohama; and Hateruma, Japan's southernmost inhabited island, famed for its star-filled skies (a longer, more weather-dependent ferry). Treat Ishigaki (Kabira and beaches) plus Taketomi and Iriomote as the core, then add more hops by days and interest, for a complete Yaeyama island-hopping trip. Book island activities ahead.
One thing Yaeyama does better than almost anywhere in Japan is the night sky. The Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park was certified as Japan's first International Dark Sky Park, and with so little light pollution the stars here are extraordinary — Hateruma is even famous as a spot to see the Southern Cross, visible from these low latitudes in spring. There's a stargazing observatory on Ishigaki, but simply walking to a dark beach away from town on a clear night is enough. If you have an evening with good weather, give it to the stars — it's as much a Yaeyama signature as the daytime sea.
Access and how many days
Access: first fly to Ishigaki Airport (about 1 hour from Naha, with some direct routes), then about 30-40 minutes by bus to town. Hop the islands by fast ferry from the town's "outer-island ferry terminal" — Taketomi about 10-15 minutes, Iriomote about 40-45, run by Yaeyama Kanko Ferry, Anei Kanko and others. To freely tour Ishigaki itself (Kabira, beaches, overlooks), a rental car is best. Set up a KKday Japan eSIM first to check ferry times and activities.
How many days: Yaeyama's value is island-hopping, so plan at least 3-4 days — base on Ishigaki, with Kabira Bay and an Ishigaki loop one day, a half-to-full day on Taketomi, a full day on Iriomote (with Yubu Island), then add Hateruma or Kohama if time allows. To combine the main island too, add a domestic connecting flight and main-island days, pushing the whole trip past a week. Before you go, see our Japan packing & weather guide — Yaeyama is near-tropical and badly affected by summer-autumn typhoons, with ferries and activities often cancelled by sea conditions, so keep the plan flexible. For the main island's northern resorts, see our Churaumi and northern Okinawa guide.
When to go and a sample plan: Yaeyama is warm year-round, with the swimming and marine season roughly April to October (manta-ray diving is strong late spring to autumn); spring and early summer are comfortable before the heat; summer is hottest, busiest and most typhoon-prone; and winter is mild for sightseeing and walking though cool for the water. A clean 4-day plan from an Ishigaki base: day one arrive and do Kabira Bay and an Ishigaki loop (overlooks, a beach, Ishigaki beef at night); day two Taketomi (village, water-buffalo cart, Kondoi Beach); day three Iriomote (mangrove canoe and Yubu Island); day four a flexible buffer for Hateruma, diving or a typhoon-delayed ferry before flying out. Book flights, the first night and any dive or canoe tour well ahead, especially in summer.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Q1:How do I get to Ishigaki? Is it like the main island?
- Ishigaki is not on Okinawa's main island but in the Yaeyama Islands further south, reached by air — about 1 hour by flight from Naha, with some direct routes from other cities. It's a different trip from the main island: no big aquarium, but a more remote island-hopping experience — base on Ishigaki and take fast ferries to Taketomi, Iriomote and others. To do both the main island and Yaeyama, plan a domestic connecting flight and several days for each. For the main island, see our Naha guide.
- Q2:Can you swim at Kabira Bay, and how much is the glass boat?
- You cannot swim at Kabira Bay — strong currents make it off-limits for safety, but its blue-green gradient earned a Michelin Green Guide three stars, Ishigaki's signature. The way to see the coral, tropical fish and turtles below is a glass-bottom boat (about 30 minutes, roughly ¥1,300-1,700 by operator, children about half). To snorkel, go to other swimmable beaches like Yonehara. Viewing Kabira Bay itself is free; only the glass boat charges.
- Q3:How do I get to Taketomi, and how much is the water-buffalo cart?
- Taketomi is about 10-15 minutes by fast ferry from Ishigaki's outer-island ferry terminal, the most popular Yaeyama island. It preserves a traditional Ryukyu village (an Important Preservation District) of red-tiled roofs, coral walls and white-sand lanes with shisa figures. The signature experience is the water-buffalo cart — riding through the village as the driver plays sanshin and sings island songs, about 30 minutes, roughly ¥3,300 and up by operator (higher in peak season). The island also has the star-sand beach (Kaiji) and the swimmable Kondoi Beach.
- Q4:How many days do the Yaeyama Islands need?
- Yaeyama's appeal is island-hopping, so plan at least 3-4 days: base on Ishigaki, with a day for Kabira Bay and an Ishigaki loop, a half-to-full day on Taketomi, a full day on Iriomote (with Yubu Island), then add Kohama, Kuroshima or Japan's southernmost Hateruma if time allows. One or two days on just Ishigaki works, but having flown this far south, give it the extra days to island-hop. Ferries are limited, so check timetables and leave transfer time.
- Q5:What should I eat on Ishigaki?
- Yaeyama food has a southern-island character: Ishigaki beef is the local black wagyu, finely marbled, eaten as yakiniku or sushi; Yaeyama soba uses thin round noodles in a light broth with stewed pork and fish cake, a little different from the main island's Okinawa soba; and seasonal pineapple and mango are very sweet, Ishigaki's fruit specialties. Restaurants and izakaya cluster around the ferry terminal and the Euglena Mall arcade in town.
- Q6:Is Iriomote worth it?
- Very much — Yaeyama's most adventurous stop. About 90% of Iriomote is subtropical jungle, home to the endangered Iriomote cat, with nature-led activities: canoeing through the mangroves, hiking to waterfalls like Pinaisara, or riding a water-buffalo cart across the shallows to Yubu Island (a subtropical botanical garden). From Ishigaki it's about 40-45 minutes by fast ferry. Since the activities are mostly half-to-full day, plan a whole day and book ahead.
